Pizza Fritta
Many summers ago, I spent days wandering around Naples, Italy, the world’s pizza capital, in search of the real deal. Pizza is everywhere in Naples and countless pizzerie claim to make the original Margherita, a classic combination of tomato, mozzarella, and basil named after the 19th century Italian queen. Pizza carts line touristy streets and hidden piazzas, tempting passersby at every turn. So, ignoring everything we had ever learned from parents, school nurses, and previous experience, for two days straight we ate pizza for lunch, afternoon snack and dinner.
Which seemed like a pretty good idea at the time because I absolutely adore pizza. It is one of my most beloved things. I often make it at home, using dried figs, caramelized onions, goat cheese, and prosciutto, or maybe sausage, spinach, and garlic. I have a top-five list of pizza places in every city I’ve ever lived in (highlights: Lucio Pizzeria in Sydney, Bottega in Montreal, Santarpio’s in Boston, Da Remo in Rome, O Sole Mio in Bologna, L’Antica Pizzeria in London). But the authentic Neapolitan pizza I had in Italy – with its thick, chewy crust and rich, sparse mozzarella – opened my eyes to a whole new world of pizza That being said, by day three my stomach was telling me, begging me, to stop. Experiencing the subtle agonies of severe vegetable deprivation and salt overload, on our last morning in Naples we decided to stop by the local market on our way to the station to buy something relatively fresh for the train ride home.
And then I saw it, amidst the midday chaos of fruit vendors and fishmongers shone the most decrepit, dirty, and crowded hole-in-the-wall displaying a case of fried foods of every imaginable strand. The woman in the front – elderly, hairy, and dressed in what could only be called a nightgown – yelled, “Pizze! Calzone!” two words which, despite her thick Neapolitan accent, I definitely understood. Intrigued at the thought of fried pizza (could two amazing concepts actually be improved when joined together?), and completely forgetting our previous resolve, we entered the store and ordered one fried pizza and one fried calzone for a total of four Euro.
While our prior pizzas in Naples had opened my eyes, this pizza opened my soul. I fell in love so hard that, despite the Southern Italian summer heat (and an already uncomfortable case of indigestion), we ordered two more fried pizzas and devoured them. But not before I could snap a photo of one of the beauties (see the end of this post for the photo, which sat framed on top of my fridge for many years).
Inspired by what could be the most memorable meal of my life, one especially dismal winter day in Montreal I decided to recreate Naples’ fried pizza in my four by five foot kitchenette. Despite one failed attempt, and being semi-convinced I would get burned by the oil, over the years I have mastered two methods of making fried pizza. If you use store-bought pizza dough, the whole process only takes about 10 minutes from start to finish. It is a remarkably easy recipe; it just requires a little deft movement and faith. I’m convinced my pizza fritta recipe, tried and true, will hold you over until you can get to Naples.
The only thing you need is a plate-sized frying pan that you can somehow cover (I used another frying pan); or you can avoid this altogether by using the oven. My standard toppings are just suggestions – you can leave off the sauce and mozzarella if you want, for a vegan pizza. The dough puffs up and becomes so light inside and so crispy outside…the mozzarella melted but still fresh. Give it a try. Who knows, you might even end up with a picture of fried pizza on your fridge, too.
HOMEMADE PIZZA FRITTA (Fried Pizza)
The thing that makes this pizza so incredible - even more incredible than normal pizza - is that it’s never soggy, as so often homemade pizza can be because our home ovens don’t get quite hot enough. Because you fry both sides, the bottom is always perfectly crunchy. Each pizza serves about 1 person - it makes a really extravagant plated meal - one massive fried pizza on each person’s plate - and also a fun family-style meal, with a bunch of sliced-up pizzas to choose from.
Sunflower or canola or vegetable oil (essentially, a good, neutral-tasting frying oil…olive oil isn’t ideal but will work in a pinch)*
Pizza dough (store bought or homemade), formed to fit your frying pan, about 1/2 inch (2-3 cm) thick (one small store bought dough will make 2 pizze fritte)**
Fresh mozzarella (the kind that comes in its own liquid if you can get it; about 1/2 big ball per pizza), torn roughly and patted dry on dish or paper towels
Tomato purée (or tomato sauce), about 2 tablespoons per pizza
Garlic powder (optional but I love it sprinkled on pizza)
Fresh basil & other toppings (optional)
*If you’re making more than one pizza, reuse the oil for the second pizza. By the third, you’ll probably need to add a bit more.
**When I make my own pizza dough, this is more or less what I do: I add a packet of instant yeast and a few big pinches of salt to 4 or so cups of flour, then I add a dash of olive oil and enough warm water to be able to form balls. I then knead it all on a floured surface, adding more flour if necessary; then I separate the dough into 2 - 4 balls, knead them individually for a minute each, then let them rise in an oiled bowl or tray, covered with a tea towel, for a few hours.
SKILLET METHOD (use if making 2 -3 pizze or if you don’t mind cranking out pizzas one by one and having them ready at different times):
In a large skillet, heat ½ inch (about 2 cm) oil (Don’t be scared! Pour it in!) over medium-high heat. Put the formed dough into the pan, adjusting the heat so it browns but doesn’t burn. After 3-4 minutes, when the dough is browning on the bottom and slightly firm when you poke the top, use tongs or a spatula and fork to flip dough over.
Here comes the only remotely tricky part: you have to move quickly. Immediately spoon only 2 tablespoons of tomato sauce on the flipped dough, leaving a generous crust around the edges (if the sauce touches the oil, it will splatter like crazy. It’s not dangerous, just really loud. I also find that if the sauce is too watery or you add too much, you could end up with soggy dough). On top of the sauce, evenly sprinkle the chunks of mozzarella and a dusting of garlic powder if desired, then immediately quickly cover the pan to seal. It will be noisy under there, but don’t worry, it’s doing its thing.
After 3 or so minutes, take the cover off and carefully remove your pizza from the pan. Top with basil and prosciutto crudo, if desired, and eat within 10 minutes.
If you’re making more than one, just keep cranking them out, adding more oil if it got soaked up.
OVEN/NOT TRICKY METHOD for making multiple pizze:
Preheat your oven to 375F/190C. Line a baking tray with tin foil.
In a large skillet, heat ½ inch (about 2 cm) oil over medium-high heat. Put the formed dough into the pan, adjusting the heat so it browns but doesn’t burn. After 3-4 minutes, when the dough is browning on the bottom and slightly firm when you poke the top, use tongs or a spatula and fork to carefully flip dough over. Fry the second side until lightly brown, cover off, in the pan for 3 to 4 minutes. Once both sides are fried, remove the dough from the pan and place it on the foil-lined tray. Top with 2 tablespoons tomato purée and sprinkle with mozzarella and garlic powder if desired. Put the tray in the oven to melt the cheese and keep the pizza hot while you make the rest of your pizze. Repeat the process with the rest of your dough, adding more oil to the pan if necessary. When you’re all done, top with whatever you like - my favorites are prosciutto crudo and basil - and serve right away.
ED: Look what the New York Times posted about!
ED: This was originally posted in July 2010. I have chosen to post it again with some updates for clarity and to breathe some life into an old favorite.
The famed (and framed) original pizza fritta in Naples
